Recently in Photography Category
Just thought of adding some of the more fun flash codes to my ExIf tool, but have decided against it for now unless someone directly requests it. I am perfectly happy with the binary choice of 0 (Flash did not fire) or 1 (Flash fired). All of the other options are roughly as easy from a logical standpoint, but they are much harder to pass into my existing code for encoding into the ExIf of image files.
0000.H = Flash did not fire.
0001.H = Flash fired.
0005.H = Strobe return light not detected.
0007.H = Strobe return light detected.
0009.H = Flash fired, compulsory flash mode
000D.H = Flash fired, compulsory flash mode, return light not detected
000F.H = Flash fired, compulsory flash mode, return light detected
0010.H = Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode
0018.H = Flash did not fire, auto mode
0019.H = Flash fired, auto mode
001D.H = Flash fired, auto mode, return light not detected
001F.H = Flash fired, auto mode, return light detected
0020.H = No flash function
0041.H = Flash fired, red-eye reduction mode
0045.H = Flash fired, red-eye reduction mode, return light not detected
0047.H = Flash fired, red-eye reduction mode, return light detected
0049.H = Flash fired, compulsory flash mode, red-eye reduction mode
004D.H = Flash fired, compulsory flash mode, red-eye reduction mode, return light not detected
004F.H = Flash fired, compulsory flash mode, red-eye reduction mode, return light detected
0059.H = Flash fired, auto mode, red-eye reduction mode
005D.H = Flash fired, auto mode, return light not detected, red-eye reduction mode
005F.H = Flash fired, auto mode, return light detected, red-eye reduction mode
On the other hand, I have decided to add all 21 types of light, since that seems more useful (and is less likely to give me a headache)
1 = Daylight
2 = Fluorescent
3 = Tungsten (incandescent light)
4 = Flash
9 = Fine weather
10 = Cloudy weather
11 = Shade
12 = Daylight fluorescent (D 5700 – 7100K)
13 = Day white fluorescent (N 4600 – 5400K)
14 = Cool white fluorescent (W 3900 – 4500K)
15 = White fluorescent (WW 3200 – 3700K)
17 = Standard light A
18 = Standard light B
19 = Standard light C
20 = D55
21 = D65
22 = D75
23 = D50
24 = ISO studio tungsten
255 = other light source
I am victorious over ExIf! The documentation for ExIf overcomplicates things. While ExIf uses a lot of different types (0x1 through 0xA), it is possible to interact with most common values utilizing only 2 of these, 0x2 and 0x5. 0x2 is the null terminated string, and 0x5 is the 2 pair of Long Ints, acting as a rational. It would also seem that even though the documentation suggests that length only matters for 0x2, it cares for all of them, so it is a must to give the length of the byte array used to carry the long ints. A small error on my part was trying to convert directly from String (because I used System.Window.Forms.TextBox to get the information) to byte[] without passing through the intermediate int, or trying to convert to byte[] from double, which was very nasty. I learned these little tricks about things by reading in ExIf information in the application itself without the aid of any little helper apps that try to clean things up, it make the structure a lot more clear.
For anyone else trying a similar exercise in futility, here is a bit of my code:
if (Type == 0x2)
{
tmpProp.Len = value.Length + 1;
value = value + nullChar;
tmpProp.Value = ASCIIEncoding.ASCII.GetBytes(value);
}
else if (Type == 0x5)
{
Byte[] tmp1 = BitConverter.GetBytes(Convert.ToInt32(value.Split('/')[0]));
Byte[] tmp2 = BitConverter.GetBytes(Convert.ToInt32(value.Split('/')[1]));
Byte[] tmp3 = new Byte[tmp1.Length + tmp2.Length];
tmp1.CopyTo(tmp3,0);
tmp2.CopyTo(tmp3, tmp1.Length);
tmpProp.Value = tmp3;
tmpProp.Len = tmp3.Length;
}
I love C#, so simple, but yet such a pain in the ass, all at once.
The Exchangable Image-file Format is a nice little thing that keeps up with information relating to how a picture was taken, where it was taken, who took it and what is in the picture (as vague as how far from the camera the subject, or even detailed information about the subject). The use of ExIf is primarily linked to digital photography, but there are some instances when it doesn't have to be. The options for storing the type of sensor method used to capture the image is certainly a digital-only field, however, there are things such as "DTDigitized", which is "Date/Time Digitized" that would indicate that the moment the image was captured and the moment it was digitized might be more than a second apart (such as in film photography).
I am horrible at keeping up with notes, so I am attempting to write software that will store all of my relevant information for me. The software for storing the actual notes was not a big deal, it is just a form that writes everything to a giant XML file, no complication there. Where things get tricky is the writing of data to the files themselves. First of all, with as common as ExIf information is, I assumed that there was some type of text-based value used to identify the properties, that isn't the case, they are large integers (such as 0x8827 for "ISO Speed"). Those integers map to a specific property. The information itself is stored as individual arrays of bytes, no strings at all, everything is stored numerically. Things have to be written in a very particular way or else when the bytes are converted back to strings for reading, things don't match up and you get off the wall values.
Now I am fighting with C# and the .NET System.Drawing.Imaging library (specifically the PropertyValue class) in an attempt to make everything work out. I have to set like 4 values for each one ExIf property I want to use. It is going to be a very long night before this application is ready for use.
The Nikon N80QD arrived at 11:50 this morning. I ordered a camera listed as "used" in Adorama's inventory. I ordered the one with the best rating that I could find (a rating of "D" for demo). Even with the device being of "demo" grade, I was expecting to see some signs that it had been touched before, but I had difficulty finding any. The camera came in its original box, in its plastic bag, complete with undisturbed silica gel packets. The only sign of the camera being used at all was the removed proof of purchase UPC on the side of the box. Also, the manual was missing, which isn't shocking, since it is worth a lot more away from the camera than it is with the camera.
My 35mm film SLR shipped from Adorama this afternoon, after a 24 hour delay (which has yet to be explained). I have decided to spend a little time today reading the manual for it. So far what I have noticed is that I am sending myself to a simpler time photographically. The Nikon N80QD is very similar to the Nikon D90's direct predecessor the Nikon D80, but there are things that are obviously very different. The biggest thing I have noticed from reading the manual is that the highly customizable menus that exist on the D80 and D90 are present on the N80, with many of the same options (or their film equivalent), except for a major difference. Where I have been used to working with a full color menu with help options and a variety of other little conveniences, on the N80 I will have the menu options guide from the manual and the option to select 1 or 0 for each of the numbered options in the menu (just numbers, no names). When I first got the D90 I asked why the menus had numbers, since the D60's menus do not have numbers, I suppose now I have my answer, because in that line of cameras there was an early history of using numbers to identify options instead of names. I suspect it will be a pain in the ass to learn all of the menu options, but I will give it my best shot and hopefully not spend the first few weeks with the camera learning its controls. Other than the main menu, all of the other controls are laid out just like the D80, which again, is nearly identical to the D90.
To get me started on the wonderful world of film photography, I have ordered the following:
SKU Brand Product Qty Price Total
-------------------- ---------------------------------------- --- ----------- -----------
DKG16 Adorama One (1) Pint (500 Ml) Plastic Gr 1 $3.95 $3.95
DKFC4 Adorama Stainless Steel Film Clips, Pack 1 $5.85 $5.85
CHISBP Adorama Indicator Stop Bath for Black &a 1 $4.99 $4.99
KKPF200P Kodak Photo-Flo 200 Photographic Wetting 1 $7.95 $7.95
ILRF500 Ilford Rapid Fixer 500 Milliliter Bottle 1 $6.95 $6.95
CHFD Adorama Film Developer for all Black &am 1 $5.99 $5.99
PAT135 Paterson 35mm Tank and Reel 1 $25.95 $25.95
FJNP400365 Fujifilm Neopan 400 Black &%3B White 1 $18.75 $18.75
US371316 Nikon N80 Autofocus W/date Body W/box D 1 $159.00 $159.00
----------------------------------------------------------------- ----------- -----------
Subtotal: $239.38
I have assembled this little getting started kit from following the advice from http://chromogenic.net/develop. I hope this works out well. I am a little nervous about having to open a film canister and putting the film on to the reel for developing. I am not good at doing things in the dark. Once the film is in the tank, very little can go wrong, or so I'm told.
I have decided this morning to make a fairly bold move in my consideration of working with film photography. I have purchased a Nikon N80D, 5 rolls of Fujifilm ISO 400 BW film, an developing tank and an assortment of chemicals required for the developing process (wetting agent, developer, stop bath, fixer). Before this morning it was pretty hypothetical, but I decided (in my sleep deprived state) that the thoughts of not doing it at all were irrational and that if I did that, I would regret it. I do not foresee doing a lot of film photography, but at least if I want to, the option is available to me. Normally my order from Adorama would have been packed today, but due to the Jewish holiday of Purim, the order will not ship until tomorrow morning at the earliest.
I am having buyer's remorse already, but I think I will get over it once I spend some time with the camera. I will need to practice my dark room techniques as well as maybe spending some time trying to learn how to make impressive photographs with contrast, shadow and light.
A long time ago, I photographed on film. From the time I was 5 until about 2000 I worked exclusively with film, a combination of 110, 35mm and APS. In 2002 I made the transition to digital photography, and then finally in 2008 I moved to Digital SLR. I have seen numerous claims that digital cannot beat the clarity of film, but in recent times I have not done anything to compare to. Out of pure curiosity and perhaps a bit for a challenge, I am considering purchasing a film SLR camera. I have found quite a good deal on a used Nikon N80 from Adorama, and I think it would be worth pursuing. The N80 is fairly close in features to the D80 (the direct predecessor to the D90). I find myself worrying about the concept of developing and printing the film. Would I use a lab? If so, which lab? How hard would it be to transform a bathroom into a dark room? I have a film scanner, so it isn't as though I would have to always get my images printed, but I would need to be able to develop the film to prevent deterioration. There seem to be only a few reasons to do film again, but yet, a few concerns and reasons to not. I feel like the biggest reason to obtain a film camera is for historical value. It is still common practice in art education programs to still use film to teach photography before digital because it forces the student to be more careful and take a more active role in the art, which is perhaps something that would be beneficial to me. There is also that feeling in the back of my mind like it's something I should learn how to do, if for no other reason than just simply for the sake of being able to use both types of media.
Maybe it's just an excuse for another toy, and that's why I am still undecided.
I am so sick of dealing with bags. I used to just think that my needs simply didn't represent the majority of people, so therefore, I was having trouble picking a bag. Now, I am starting to think that the majority of bags just suck. I received my LowePro FastPack 250 this morning and at the moment I can't say for certain that it will be around for another few days, because I am having trouble finding any redeeming qualities about it. Even though it was described in a way that made it sound like the perfect bag for me. I should state that other than my reservations about the bag, I think it is well made and could be a quality addition to any photographer's bag collection.
The problems however are too great to ignore, at least for me.
- First, the bag's visual appearance is HUGE. It is much bigger than I feel that a bag like this should be (in depth).
- Second, I tried putting in the Nikkor 70-300 lens, it didn't fit. It fits in the camera area, but what if I am shooting with a lens other than it? Where does it go?
- Third, I was told this bag had the LowePro SlipLock system… uh… yeah, kinda. It has ONE connector, on the right strap. A very bad spot in my opinion, unless you are sniper needing easy access to your ammo in that area. I cannot see strapping the 70-300's Lens Case 3 to that position and still feeling comfortable walking around in public. My shoulder holster has 2 connectors, one on each side. This bag has a side with no zippers or other things blocking a connector from being there. If there were a slip lock connector on the side of the bag, it would resolve #2, and make #1 less annoying (a bag this fucking huge has to be able to handle a large lens).
My plan at the moment is to continue to tinker with the bag's interior configuration a bit and see if I can come up with some workable solution, and/or find a good way to use the alternative connectors on the Lens Case 3 to attach the 70-300 to the bag. Other than those problems noted, I do like the bag, and feel that my equipment would be well protected and more accessible than in my holster (little compartments, so less lens cases hanging). The compartment for the laptop is perfectly sized. Its for a 15.4" laptop, which I don't think it can comfortably hold, but its absolutely perfect for my 13.3. I also like that the bag stands up by itself.
At the moment I am carrying the D90 with the 18-105mm inside of a Targus laptop backpack, its not very secure in there, and there isn't much padding, but it kind of works. There isn't room for the 70-300mm in or on this bag either, but that doesn't bother me cause the bag is thinner, narrower and shorter than the LowePro bag, and I have space for the Lens Case 1, containing the Nikkor 35m f/1.8, to attach to the back of the bag (horizontally).
This has been a bad week for me. I have not been actively shooting for project 365 for a variety of reasons, including personal depression, really sucky weather (it's been gray for like the past 10 days) and academic interferences (exams, etc). As today is Sunday, and therefore a new week, I am getting back on the train for the week and will try to take a single image for each day. For the past week I will use a slightly different rule for the images. To make sure I pick back up and don't spend time worrying about the missed days I am going to treat the entire week's images as candidates for each day, therefore, even though I have no representatives of Tuesday, Thursday or Friday I can fill in using things from Wednesday and Saturday. I let myself slip majorly this week and as a result I feel as though I need to push myself harder next week. I do not want to screw up the progression of this project. I enjoy it too much to do that. So, starting today I am going to attempt to challenge myself and do only non-lame photos each day.
This week's photos will be posted later tonight.
